loving london

I really miss London. Having lived there for a year during my Masters programme at LSE, especially after having already matured as a traveller, I was floored by the diversity and vibrancy of the city. Even as I was extracting the photos for this much-delayed travelogue, I caught myself smiling at the amount of fun I had. London is indeed a city to be lived in.
In this travelogue, I will focus on some of the key areas of the city. across historic attractions, parks and markets. The photos also include those taken during one of my first visits to the city (before my Masters programme and before I learned how to take good photos) so there is some inconsistency in quality. I will try to replace these in my next trips (which is definitely in my future).
City Centre Attractions


The UK is closely associated with the British monarchy to me, so it is only natural that you visit Buckingham Palace where the royal family is said to reside. If you arrive just around 1045am on specific days, you will be in time to witness the changing of the guards which is a whole ceremony in itself. The Palace is closed to the public most days, but you will find tourists congregating around the adjacent elaborate Victoria Memorial (named after Queen Victoria) to snap their pictures.

Head slightly west from the Palace and you will end up at Wellington Arch, the original entrance to Buckingham which was then converted to a memorial arch. It shows the Angel of Peace descending on the chariot of War, symbolising Arthur Wellesley’s (the 1st Duke of Wellington) defeat of Napoleon at the Battle of Waterloo. The bronze sculpture is huge and will capture your attention from afar.
Here, I have missed some pictures but you can continue west for more historic locations including Kensington Palace, the Royal Albert Hall (which you should attend a performance in), the Natural History Museum and the Victoria and Albert Museum. All of these are likely to take up a day in themselves and you will be sufficiently warmed up to British history.

If you want to get some shopping in while you are in this part of the city, you can go by Harrods, a beautiful shopping emporium with multiple retail and food halls. Most tourists will tell you to make a visit to this location so be sure to plan some time to explore.

From Buckingham Palace, if you go east instead, you can make your way to Westminister Abbey, a Protestant church that still runs services. As the church where almost every British monarch has been coronated, it is iconic enough to have been deemed a World Heritage site. You can either attend a service for free (if you are truly there to worship) or purchase tickets for a guided tour during non-service hours.

On the east of Westminister Abbey lie most of the government buildings including the Houses of Parliament, which most famously is also home to Big Ben, the bell in the 16th-century Gothic clocktower and icon of London. I managed to take this picture before most of the scaffolding went up but you may have to wait a while since there are major maintenance works ongoing, although they are meant to come down in 2022. While you are here, you can check out the collection of statues of notable Commonwealth leaders in the Parliament Square Gardens, as well as the museum exhibit in the Churchill War Rooms.


Head north from Big Ben and you will hit Picadilly Circus, a popular road junction with access to popular shopping streets. This is a good place to explore popular commercial areas of London, including Carnaby Street and Regent Street, part of the wider Soho area. There are some amazing restaurants and bars in the neighbourhood as well, so do plan to either grab lunch or dinner here during the day.


Further east is the Covent Garden and Seven Dials neighbourhood. Here you can expect to run into entertainment options, whether through street performers or in the many theatres hosting West End productions. Spend some time in Neal’s Yard which is a picturesque nook that frequently sees Instagrammers pass their hours there. There are some good dining and retail options here as well, including a famous cheese shop. Finally, make sure to check out the piazza outside St Paul’s Church where buskers abound.

Within the vicinity, if you still have the energy and the time, you can check out Trafalgar Square where the iconic Nelson Column can be found, commemorating Admiral Horatio Nelson who died at the Battle of Trafalgar. Nearby are the Admiralty Arch (another iconic arch), the National Gallery (an art museum) and Leicester Square (a popular open space for street performances). End off with a snack at Chinatown, where boba tea and dim sum stalls lie.


By now, you would probably realise that London cannot be fully experienced in a single day. I would advise you to start off your next day at St Paul’s Cathedral, a massive English Baroque style building with a dominating dome. As the mother church of the Diocese of London, it is an important part of London society, although you will need to pay a hefty ticket price to enter the church as a visitor. I have personally not gone into the cathedral but there is sufficient beauty to be witnessed just from the exterior. In fact, this is a good place to venture south of the Thames (London’s main river) by crossing the modern Millennium Bridge. Be sure to snap a photo of the cathedral from the bridge!

The parts of Central London south of the Thames do not have as many tourist attractions but it is the better side to take a walk along the river. You can spend some time at the Tate Modern for an exploration of modern art and then head down to Shakespeare’s Globe for adaptations of Shakespeare’s work in an open-air theatre that is meant to be a recreation of the original. You can also check out the Clink Prison Museum, Golden Hinde and the Winchester Palace for more medieval attractions. The Southwark Cathedral also gives you a beautiful place to catch a breather before heading forward.


Tower of London
Most people confuse Tower Bridge with London Bridge, but the former is the destination for that iconic photo. London has plenty of bridges across the Thames though so you can indulge yourself with as many bridges as you want. Once you cross the bridge back to the north of the Thames, you can decide if you want to purchase a ticket to explore the Tower of London, where the crown jewels are kept and also where plenty of prisoners were kept. That makes a good place to wrap up your main city tour of London, although there are plenty of other tourist attractions you could consider adding to the list.
Neighbourhoods and Markets
Assuming you are not just in London for three to five days, the rest of the travelogue would be of interest to you because as you can imagine, London is much more than its monarchs and medieval tales. It is a vibrant city that is very much creating culture as it breathes. This can be found across the neighbourhoods and markets in the city, and while you may need to head slightly out of the city centre for it, you will be well rewarded.

The most popular market is Borough Market which has a history running up to nearly 1000 years. Covering both fresh produce as well as cooked food, the permanent fixture is home to some of the more well-known names in the London food scene, including Monmouth Coffee and Brindisa Deli. Be sure to also grab some oysters at Richard Hawards!

Showcasing how diverse London is, the Columbia Road Flower Market is, as the name suggests, a flower market near the Hoxton area. Open only on Sundays, this market is an ideal location if you are looking for plants and flowers to spruce up your room. The Hoxton area is also an up-and-coming area in London, filled with hipster eateries and bars, so it is worth a stroll around in itself.


London has its own Painted Ladies and they can be found in the Notting Hill district. Known as a “bohemian’ district, I personally thought it had gotten very gentrified already. Nonetheless, the district is still great for a walk-around, especially if you can make it to the Portobello Road Market. The market is more focused on vintage goods with some snack stalls dotted around, but the vibe is relaxed and pleasant.


My favourite market is actually the Maltby Street Market, which is only open on weekends and is sited below a railway arch. It was one of the newer markets on the blocks but I loved its dense concentration of food stalls and fresh produce. You probably want some friends to split all the food with since they are multiple ethnic and fusion dishes here to try.



My second favourite market is Brick Lane Market, mainly because I lived right next to it. Most days, Brick Lane is known for its collection of South Asian restaurants, zany murals as well as its existing set of vintage goods shops, but on Sundays, the market comes alive with some of the best food stalls in London. I do not know what stalls still remain but my favourite was The Rib Man, which dished a mean serving of pulled pork with an uncomparable hot sauce. If you are done with Brick Lane, you can also head over to the nearby Spitalfields Market which also has an interesting collection of food stalls. Alternatively, take a walk into adjacent Shoreditch in the evening for London’s notorious drinking district, where fun indeed knows no bounds.


If you are looking for a market that is open every day, you can try Camden Market, slightly north of the city centre. Most of the shops here are permanent fixtures although that does not stop the area from having an insane diversity of products and food. The design of the neighbourhood around the canals also make it a picturesque experience.


Brixton is a neighbourhood on the up-and-up. It is diverse, full of energy and unpretentious. Brixton Market, for example, has a unique collection of fashion, trinkets and food, while the larger district is home to some of the most understated clubs and spots in the city. The collection of murals here is also worth a trip down.

If you are looking for something more posh and elegant, you could instead head to Mayfair which, while not my default go-to, is appealing to many. Filled with upscale townhouses and boutique stores, you could probably blow a month’s salary here in an hour. If you are well connected, you can also get access to some of the more exclusive clubs in the city. Annabel’s is an iconic one, mostly because of its rose-adorned facade.
Parks
You will realise very quickly that London has found a way to preserve its green spaces amid all the developments, which is both impressive and effective in improving the quality of life of the city’s residents. I have shortlisted some of my favourites here, and although there are many I simply have not taken photos of, including Hyde Park, St James Park, Regent’s Park and Battersea Park, you are likely to come across them as you follow my suggested itinerary above.



One of my favourite parks is Victoria Park, which is a large green area in East London. It is one of the best places for a run, itself hosting a Sunday market as well as many other amenities. If you want a real treat, grab a lake-facing table at Pavillion Cafe for brunch and fill your soul. My favourite “insider-tip” is to leave the park by following Regent’s Canal, which allows you to have a relaxing waterside stroll. There are some restaurants and cafes along the way – I recommend Barge House for some unique bread bowls.


You may have to venture out a bit from London (it is just a Tube + bus ride) but Richmond Park was one of my favourite best-kept secrets of London. This huge park is a former hunting ground and therefore you can still find large deer roaming the space. Be careful though, especially of the stags, as the deer do not enjoy being approached. This is a great place to go for a quiet walk or if you want to pick up horseriding at one of the nearby stables.


The last park to call out is Greenwich Park, home of the Prime Meridian (i.e. the GMT +0 timezone that we take reference from). You cannot see the green from my photos but there is an extensive park around the buildings with a really good view. Besides seeing the actual line from which the Meridian is derived, you can also go to the Royal Observatory. It is a good way to add some interesting spots to your itinerary.
Experiences
London is a city to be experienced, and that means going to events and finding your way to unique encounters. My time in London was filled with such amazing moments, facilitated by keeping a keen eye on websites such as TimeOut London and Secret London. Here are some of the more accessible options you can add to your list.

The Bill Murray is a comedy club in the Angel district of London with daily performances. They have a cosy bar for you to hang out at before the show and an even cosier stage area for you to watch up and coming stand-up comedians try their material. I actually enjoyed most shows, and I went back a number of times.

In the summer, what better way to spend the day than in the warm sun with a Pimm’s in your hand. There are plenty of riverside bars but my favourite was Tamesis Dock which is a bar on a boat. Expectedly, it is a tight squeeze so do come early to get a spot and you can spend your summers with great music and gentle libations.


If you are a person after the views, London has a range of options but I would recommend getting a ticket for the Sky Garden. Occasionally, they do provide discounted access but I would say the top-floor view in the “Walkie Talkie” building is worth the ticket. You can also try going to Duck and Waffle or One New Change for good views.

If you are a beer lover, London has an unofficial brewery crawl that may be just for you. Called the Bermondsey Beer Mile, you can spend the whole day (and I mean the whole day) drinking a combination of ales, lagers, ciders, sours and stouts across a multitude of breweries, tucked away beneath the railway arches. Do note that most of the breweries are only open to the public on specific days (most are open on Saturday) and so you can expect a crowd going down the mile with you on the same day. If you do not think you have the capacity for that much alcohol, you can always break the mile up into a number of legs for different days.



Like your seafood fresh? Head down to Billingsgate Market in the wee hours of the morning to grab the freshest seafood together with most restaurant chefs and serious cooks. It is not quite Tsukiji but it works! Prices are definitely more competitive than boutique markets in London for the same quality. For a proper breakfast to reward yourself for waking up so early, grab a scallop and bacon bap in Billingsgate Cafe in the corner of the market.


If you happen to be in London during the Christmas season, pre-book a ticket to the Hyde Park Winter Wonderland which is free to enter most times. It is essentially a large carnival with an eclectic collection of food as well as fun theme park rides. I enjoyed taking a walk while drinking some hot chocolate and catching the carnival performers entertaining the crowds.
Food and Drinks
I have reviewed nearly 200 food and drink establishments in London, and you can see the list I have collated here on Google Maps. In this post, I have extracted some of the “must-try” options.

Sunday Roast is as British as it gets, and if you are in London, you should make your way to a steakhouse for this dish. Often only served on Sundays since church-going families had no time to cook for themselves, Sunday Roasts often include a choice of protein (normally beef or chicken) as well as some roast vegetables and Yorkshire pudding with gravy. I was brought to Hawksmoor for my Sunday Roast which was a delicious experience. Other steakhouses you can explore include Flat Iron and Blacklock.

Of course, you may be wondering about Fish and Chips, the UK Dish that more likely makes its way around the world. London is one of many UK cities that serve the dish but in the cosmopolitan city, you would be fine if you got your serving from Poppies. This is a traditional chippie shop with fixings such as mashed peas readily available. As with most London restaurants, do note that dining in costs more than takeaway and in Poppies’ case, the price difference is quite significant. Other famous fish and chips spots in London include Fish and Shoreditch Fish and Chips.

One of my favourite things about London was the presence of small English Cafes which were unpretentious and affordable. Often serving the working class, these cafes are the best place to go for a pitch-black coffee as well as some English Breakfast. This is the full set including toast, eggs, baked beans, grilled tomatoes and often some bacon and sausage. I would recommend just searching for the nearest decent one in your neighbourhood but if you want a reliable location, the 24-hour Polo Bar is a good place to go.

I fell in love with a good pie when I was in the UK. Something about pie crust and fatty meat coming together just worked for me. Pies are often sold frozen in grocery stores but if you want a fresh packet that is made with a craftsman’s touch, head to The Pie Room in Holborn.

London’s diversity comes through with its range of ethnic cafes and restaurants as well. Any Londoner will point you to Brick Lane’s Beigel Bake as a great place to feed your munchies any time of the day (since it is 24-hours). This Jewish bakery has a range of other baked goods as well but this one dish is what draws everyone back.

Ethnic food can also take on a London flavour, and in Dishoom’s case, this is exactly what makes the collection of restaurants precious. Each restaurant across London retains a Parsi cafe heritage while also introducing something new in each outlet, both in dishes on the menu as well as in how the environment is created. My favourite is the Shoreditch location because of the outdoor veranda.


Chinese food in London is also in a league of its own, as it combines classic techniques with quality ingredients from the UK. There are two places you can feed your cravings: Chinatown is the obvious choice for a more accessible fix, and you can go to Four Seasons for Roast Duck (although the quality has admittedly dropped), and Bayswater is your option for more premium offerings, especially at Pearl Liang for their lobster noodles.


I wanted to make a special mention here for Padella, a cosy pasta restaurant that till this day has stayed in my memories. You will need to stand in line for a while so I advise you arrive a while before they open to get in as soon as they allow. The dishes are simple, affordable but made with love and quality. They recently opened a Shoreditch location as well that I have not yet checked out.

Let us also not forget that London is home to an impressive range of fine dining and premium restaurants. Unfortunately, they do tend to be on the more expensive side and since I spent most of my time in London as a student, I was only able to visit a couple of these establishments. One that I really enjoyed was Aquavit, a 1-Michelin star restaurant that had a great brunch deal. Other notable mentions include Gymkhana, Dinner by Heston Blumenthal and Barrafina.

My all-time favourite restaurant in London continues to be Kiln, a Thai-focused modern eatery with counter seating and great service. I often struggled to get a seat here and would camp early to come in right as they open. I enjoyed the heartiness of the food, especially when you get to see the chefs use traditional equipment to cook the dishes. I cannot wait to go back here.

Drinking in London is thankfully not difficult, with pubs dotting every part of the city. I would definitely just walk into any one of them for a simple pint of lager or ale. Most of the pubs are under franchises such as Wetherspoons but you can find the occasional independent outlet if you want to be more selective. You can use this list if you want to find historically significant pubs. My recommendation is The Astronomer for a reliable location.
There are also plenty of other bars, most on my Google Maps list at the top of the section, but I will prioritise Nightjar (for great jazz), Bar Termini (for something classic) and Lyanness (for something that will blow your mind).
I hope the travelogue serves to be useful in your visits to London. The city is easily explorable using the Tube and the Bus, which you can pay fares for with any PayWave enabled credit/debit card. You should be sensible as with any city, in terms of safety, as there are some occurrences of street muggings and snatch thefts. London is a lot more card-friendly for payments and there are plenty of ATMs for cash withdrawal if you need them (mostly for the smaller cafes and market stalls).
I will be posting a follow-up guide on day trips from London so do look out for that! In the meantime, let me know what I have missed in my London travelogue.
